On fiberglass tub/shower enclosures When it is only possible to attach one end of. Tub Shower Enclosure Grab Bar Insert medium expanding foam into one of the holes drilled through fiberglass for grab bar mounting. Grab bars in fiberglass showers. A fiberglass shower enclosure is a simple way to accentuate the look of your bathroom. These enclosures are built of durable and low-maintenance material. They match up to any bathroom design and prevent water from leaking into the remaining bathroom space. More pocket friendly than traditional tile enclosures, fiberglass enclosures are an easy way to change the look of your bathroom. Even better, they come ready-to-install, and you can put it up all by yourself in a few hours without hiring professional help. Step 1 - Choosing the Enclosure Design The style of the must be decided according to the design of your bathroom. They come in a wide range of patterns and colors. ![]() Choose something that adds on to the bathroom appeal. Make sure that the size of the enclosure is in proportion with the bathing space, or you could end up with a cluttered bathroom area. The material of the fiberglass could be colored with gel coat or plain acrylic, but you need to make sure that you purchase it from a reliable hardware store. ![]() Step 2 - Removing the Old Enclosure You have to completely remove all parts of the existing enclosure, right from the shower pipes, drain, walls and the pan too. The shower fixtures have caps on the outside of the knobs. Pull them off and you will find screws, which attach the fixtures. Turn the screws counterclockwise, to loosen and detach the fixtures. Hold the shower head at the place near the wall and turn it in a counterclockwise direction. This will make the head come off. Step 3 - Removing the Drain Shoe You have to remove the shower tub strainer. Insert pliers in the crosspieces of the strainer, which are at the base of the tub, and turn it counterclockwise. After removing the strainer, you will find a drain shoe, that is a threaded pipe connected to the drain pipe, below the surface. The drain shoe too can be removed by turning it counterclockwise. Place a flat pry bar at the edge of the shower pan and pry it out by applying mild force. Make sure that you do not cause the pan to crack. Pry out the wall panels too, in the same manner, by placing the bar at the bottom edge of the wall panels. Now you have successfully removed all the old parts of the shower enclosure. Step 4 - Placing the Pan Since we are installing an enclosure of the same size as the old one, the shower pan and its drain system will fit in place without much trouble. Insert the drain shoe to the drain pipe in the place where it was before. Now dry fit the shower pan into the area and see that the set up sits firmly in position. Remove the pan again and use thinset mortar, mixed with water, to make the pan base. Spread the mortar evenly, then put in the shower pan. For sealing the seam where the drain and pan joins, spread caulk along the sides to prevent water seepage Step 5 - Setting up Walls Apply panel glue to the sides of the shower wall panels and the studs on the walls present. Attach the panels at the base and flex them up to the wall while going up. Allow the glue to dry and then caulk the gaps between the wall panels. Since you are installing the fixtures in the same place as before, simply drill holes with a hole saw in the panels to accommodate the existing fixtures. Insert the fixtures through the holes, as the panels go in place. Replace the hardware in the reverse order in which you removed it in Step 2. Step 6 - Final touches to the Enclosure Finally take waterproof board and place it above the panels of the enclosure. There must be a 1/8-inch gap between the shower stall wall and this waterproof, drywall board. How To Install Shower Niche InsertTape it with fiberglass tape along the sides where it meets the upper seams of the panels. The board helps to render a neat look to the enclosure. Apply the caulk evenly at the sides of the board where they meet the wall panel top. Your new shower stall is installed in place of the old. Tear Out There are many different types of prefabricated showers, as well as many types of wallboard that may be installed behind them. Plan on tearing out everything right down to the studs to ensure you are installing the tile on a stable, water-resistant surface that will protect your framing. ![]() Cut up the existing shower stall with a reciprocating saw into manageable sections to remove it, and then pull the sections out with a pry bar. This may tear the wallboard behind it, as well. Use a saw and a sledgehammer to tear out the existing wallboard until you get right down to the studs. Vapor Barrier and Backerboard Tile and cement backer board together protect your walls from moisture, but they aren't completely impervious to the humidity and spray in the shower. If any water were to penetrate a crack in the tile, it could seep through the backer board to the studs. Protect your studs by hanging a vapor barrier over them from the top right down to the bottom of the shower stall. Screw sheets of cement backer board on top of the vapor barrier, each sheet 1/8-inch apart and away from the perimeter of the shower. Backer board will not disintegrate in the presence of moisture and will support even the heaviest tile walls. Plan Your Layout Before installing the tile for your new shower stall, take the time to plan the layout and placement of the tiles. Stand in the doorway of the shower; the wall you face is the first wall you tile, beginning at the bottom center and moving out evenly to each side. Tile the two side walls next, beginning at the back of the shower stall and moving toward the front. Plan on using a row of finished-edge tiles on the outer edges of the shower to cover the tile edges. If you choose to create an accent wall in the shower, consider using either the wall you see when you first enter the shower or the wall behind the shower valve. Install the Tiles Spread a layer of thin-set mortar onto the backer board in the bottom center of the back wall of the shower. Press the tiles into the mortar in the order you laid them out in your planning. Tap them in with a rubber mallet to ensure good mortar coverage on their backs. Allow the mortar to cure for 24 hours, and then grout the stall. Spread the grout over the tiles with a grout float, and then let it set up for 10 minutes. Wash the surface of the tiles with a grout sponge to clean them. Apply a bead of caulk around the perimeter of each wall of tile to fill the expansion joints, and allow it to cure for 24 hours.
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